(version 2)
Kuala Lumpur, millennium year 2000. I'm sitting in a bar, waiting for my girlfriend to arrive for her brother's teaching conference. Maps spread on the table, trying to figure out my next move. The Australian next to me glances over—weathered expat type, clearly been living his own unconventional life in Southeast Asia.
"What are you up to?" he asks.
I start explaining my travels, fumbling around, not really having words for what I'm doing. It's not exactly tourism, not business, not anything that fits normal categories.
He cuts me off: "You're on walkabout, mate."
Boom. He'd named something I was living but couldn't articulate. That moment became a dividing line—before I had a word for it, after I understood what I was actually doing.
This had started in Bangkok airport. Chaos. No English signs I could read, couldn't figure out the bus system, no taxis visible. I'm standing there, large American guy with camera gear, obviously lost among the Southeast Asian crowds.
That's when a young British guy spots me. Living in Bangkok, doing his own thing outside the normal expat circles. Without being asked, he walks over, gets me on the right bus, shows me the best hotel, explains how to get a cheap room. Just... helped. No transaction, no agenda. He saw someone who needed guidance and provided it.
First glimpse of what I'd later understand: when you stop trying to control everything, when you let yourself be genuinely lost, help appears from unexpected places.
Later, decision time. My girlfriend and her family chose Phuket—already a known vacation spot, predictable, comfortable. They were amazed when I said I was heading into what they called "the recently opened Pol Pot jungle"—blown-up roads, widows everywhere, genuinely dangerous territory.
Why choose the hard path? Something was pulling me toward unmapped territory, places that hadn't been optimized for tourists yet. I wanted to encounter Cambodia directly, not through the filter of organized tourism.
That choice set everything in motion.
Here's where it gets wild. I arrived at Angkor Wat on millennium international eve. Instead of taking the causeway like a normal person, I followed my gut into the jungle. Found a small village, heard music. Monks in a stilt house, chanting and playing instruments I'd never seen. They invited me to join—we jammed together as the old millennium died.
Then I made my way to the main temple complex, now almost dark. Stumbled through the chambers, completely black inside, following sound and instinct. Emerged into brilliant light at the front of the famous main temple to find—royal Cambodian dancers performing for the king himself. A private Air France event, top international dignitaries.
I'd wandered out from behind the stage without an invitation, without a ticket, having entered through the jungle while everyone else came through official channels. Typical for how these journeys went.
In the mostly deserted temple complexes, I'd sketch alone. That's when the children found me—kids from the Khmer Rouge era, curious about this foreign guy drawing pictures in their sacred spaces. They adopted me. Not as customers or guides, but genuinely. We became family for my time there.
The mother of some of these kids asked what I needed. I mentioned a camera battery—the same battery I couldn't find in any of the numerous camera stores in Bangkok's massive international airport. She said wait a minute, disappeared into the remote jungle.
Came back with exactly the battery I needed.
Think about that. Sophisticated commercial infrastructure of a major international airport: no battery. Village mother, remote jungle: produces the exact thing I required. Different forms of abundance, different ways of accessing what you need.
Heading to China next, but this was pre-reliable internet days. I'd tried to coordinate with my friend Tom through the "feeble new internet" but it failed. I was flying into Shanghai—one of the world's most challenging cities—in the early morning with no confirmed pickup, no backup plan.
Anyone rational would have arranged multiple contingencies. I just trusted that Tom would be there.
He was. Waiting at the airport with reservations in hand.
Looking back two decades later, I realize I was living at the exact threshold between two worlds. The old world of analog navigation—where you moved through uncertainty guided by intuition and human connection—and our current world of digital mediation where everything can be tracked, mapped, and optimized.
My millennium travels were possibly the last moment when this kind of walkabout consciousness was still accessible for international travelers. Now we have GPS, instant translation, real-time everything. The space where synchronicity could operate has been filled with technological solutions.
But here's what I learned that technology can't replicate: when you operate from genuine openness rather than anxious control, when you're willing to be surprised rather than demanding predetermined outcomes, abundance appears from impossible sources. The British expat who materialized when Bangkok's systems failed. The Cambodian mother who solved what international commerce couldn't. Tom waiting despite communication breakdown.
These weren't lucky accidents. They were demonstrations of how reality responds when you're navigating by different principles—trust instead of control, relationship instead of transaction, presence instead of planning.
Today we consume experiences but don't digest them. We collect connections but don't cultivate relationships. We accumulate information but don't develop wisdom. We've lost the metabolic capacity to absorb what we encounter, to let experiences transform us rather than just entertaining us.
The gratitude deficit disorder plaguing our age isn't about lacking things to be grateful for—we're drowning in abundance. It's about losing the ability to receive what's already here, to let gifts become nourishment instead of just data points.
Walkabout consciousness taught me the difference. Every encounter I've described required what I now call metabolic capacity—the ability to remain present and receptive when outcomes couldn't be predicted. To trust forms of provision that can't be guaranteed. To receive guidance from sources that can't be verified in advance.
This capacity develops only through direct encounter with genuine uncertainty. It can't be downloaded, purchased, or learned through simulation. It emerges when you're willing to appear unreasonable by conventional standards, to risk depending on forms of reliability that transcend mechanical systems.
The corporate entities optimizing our world promise efficiency at the cost of everything that makes existence meaningful. Against their logic of pure optimization, walkabout offers something no algorithm can replicate: the capacity to receive abundance that emerges only through authentic presence, real relationship, and the courage to enter territory with no predetermined map.
The Australian in that Kuala Lumpur bar named what I was living. Now I understand it was more than personal adventure—it was learning to navigate by principles we're rapidly forgetting, developing capacities we desperately need as our old certainties collapse and our familiar systems fail.
The walkabout continues whether we recognize it or not. The question is whether we'll remember how to breathe deeply enough to receive the guidance that's always available, or keep trying to GPS our way through unmapped territory with instruments designed for a world that no longer exists.